A History of the Ministry of Information, 1939-46

11 10 12 11 13 12 14 13 15 14 16 15 17 16 18 17

2. ESTIMATES OF ANNUAL. CLOTHING REQUIREMENTS

Workers were asked (Question 8) to estimate what clothes they required for their job for a year. The replies have been tabulated on pages 13 and 14.

The average requirement for men is 147 coupons, ranging from 181 for workers to 120 for Distributive Workers. For women the average is 124 coupons, ranging from 196 for those in Iron & Steel Manufacture to 91 for Agriculturists.

It is necessary to show whether these estimates are reasonable or whether the, are unduly inflated. What evidence has been collected bearing on this?

First the investigators’ reports on the survey as a whole show that, while there was exaggeration by some workers, in general workers did try to give an unbiased estimate. Of the 23 investigators who reported, 14 are neutral on this point, 6 say that the estimates might not be strictly accurate, as it was difficult for many workers with a stock of clothes to say exactly what they required for a year, or that estimates were exaggerated in the hope that the industry would benefit from extra coupon awards. Three investigators say they had no reason to suppose that answers were not frank and honest. It would therefore appear that the greater number of workers had no wish to exaggerate, and the underestimations by some would compensate for over-estimations by others, but the restricted number of workers who purposely over-estimated would tend to exaggerate the average estimate. There is no obvious evidence that one occupation group exaggerates more than another.

Secondly, there is the evidence of the analysis of replies to the questions. If, in general, the average estimated requirement of each group is reasonable, it could be expected to have relation to -

  1. 1. Damage to clothing caused by work.

  2. 2. The proportion of workers unable to obtain all essential requirements with their clothing coupons.

  3. 3. The net intake of clothing coupons from the families of workers.

  4. 4. The expenditure of coupons on clothes needed for work.

(A mathematical expression known as the coefficient of correlation is here used to determine the relationship between requirements and the other factors. This coefficient, “r”, may fluctuate between + 1 and - 1. These limiting values represent perfect direct and perfect inverse correlation respectively. Zero represents complete absence of correlation, and a value of “r” between Zero and + 1 indicates a degree of direct correlation. Any value over + .5 is usually taken as evidence of satisfactory correlation, having regard to the probable error attached to it.)

1. correlation of estimated annual coupon requirements and damage to clothing caused by work.

Occupational Group Requirements (See page 13 and 14) Damage to Clothing (See page 34)
Men (Coupons) (index)
8. Ironstone Quarry Workers 181 3.14
2. Heavy Engineering & Shipbuilding 164 2.65
4. Iron & Steel Manufacture 157 2.06
12. Building Trades 149 2.10
9. Limestone Quarries 140 2.60
14. Non-uniformed Transport 138 1.99
11. Slate Quarries 137 2.74
10. Clay Quarries 137 1.63
15. Agriculturists 135 1.73
6. Distributive Workers 120 1.16
r = + .76 ±. 09
Women
5. Ironstone Quarry Workers 196 2.01
3. Heavy Engineering & Shipbuilding 144 2.10
1. Engineering Machinists 124 1.81
7. Distributive Workers 100 1.15
13. Agriculturists 91 1.75
r = + 0.63 ±. 18

There is thus shown to be a relationship between requirements and occupational damage to clothing. It is probable that weighting the kinds of damages would result in higher positive correlation.

2. Correlation of coupon requirements with proportion of workers unable to obtain essential requirements with present allocation of coupons.

Occupational Group Requirements Unable obtain Requirements
Men (Coupons) (see page 15)%
8. Ironstone Quarry Workers 181 78
2. Heavy Engineering & Shipbuilding 164 87
4. Iron & Steel Manufacture 157 81
12. Building Trades 149 75
9. Limestone Quarries 140 76
14. Non-uniformed Transport 138 75
11. Slate Quarries 137 76
10. Clay Quarries 137 64
15. Agriculturists 135 72
6. Distributive Workers 120 58
r = + .73 ±. 10
Women
5. Ironstone Quarry Workers 196 93
3. Heavy Engineering & Shipbuilding 144 88
1. Engineering Machinists 124 81
7. Distributive Workers 100 78
13. Agriculturists 91 69
R = + 0.93 ±. 04

The high values for “r” show positive relationship between requirements and the proportion of workers saying they were unable to meet requirements with their available coupons. This tabulation is of all groups, including those having supplementary awards of coupons. It is evident that supplementary awards where given have gone some way to enable workers to meet their requirements, but not all the way. As examples, in the sample of 121 Ironstone Quarry Workers, of the 22 who had received an award, 12 said they were unable to meet their essential requirements, and of those in Iron & Steel Manufacture who had received an award, some 70% said they could not meet requirements.

If the groups having a large proportion of workers who had received an award are omitted from this table, the correlations are higher still, being + .91 for men and + .95 for women.

3. correlation of requirements with net intake of coupons from the worker’s family plus supplementary awards.

Occupational Group Requirements Net Intake of Coupons (Average Coupon receipt) (page7) Average Supplementary Award Net coupons Receipt + Supplementary Award
Men (Coupons) Less AV. Coupons given (page 9) (Coupons page 6) (see page 15)%
8. Ironstone Quarry Workers 181 13.8 12.4 26.2
2. Heavy Engineering & Shipbuilding 164 9.7 1.2 10.9
4. Iron & Steel Manufacture 157 14.8 18.1 32.9
12. Building Trades 149 8.2 0.9 9.1
9. Limestone Quarries 140 11.9 1.7 13.6
14. Non-uniformed Transport 138 9.4 0.9 10.3
11. Slate Quarries 137 16.4 3.6 20.0
10. Clay Quarries 137 10.0 0.5 10.5
15. Agriculturists 135 3.6 - 3.6
6. Distributive Workers 120 3.9 0.6 4.5
r (Requirements and last column) = +.063 ± 0.13
Women
5. Ironstone Quarry Workers 196 27.2 10.1 37.3
3. Heavy Engineering & Shipbuilding 144 20.5 1.0 21.5
1. Engineering Machinists 124 13.2 0.4 13.6
7. Distributive Workers 100 7.7 0.9 8.6
13. Agriculturists 91 5.1 0.6 5.7
r (Requirements and last column) = + 1.0

There is shown to be a relationship between the worker’s estimated requirement and the extent to which he has had to take coupons from his family. The correlation is satisfactory with men, since it is in excess of + .5 usually taken as a criterion and it is perfect in the case of women. In the male groups, 2, 9 and 14 are conspicuously out of step. That the women show better correlation than men is due at least in part, to the surer knowledge they have of their personal coupon situation, reflected in the finding that 70% of men pool their coupons as against only 53% of women.

4. Requirements and expenditure of coupons.

Occupational Group Requirements Expenditure of coupons (pages 20 and 21)
Men
8. Ironstone Quarry Workers 181 86.5
2. Heavy Engineering & Shipbuilding 164 83.1
4. Iron & Steel Manufacture 157 97.0
12. Building Trades 149 73.0
9. Limestone Quarries 140 77.3
14. Non-uniformed Transport 138 69.6
11. Slate Quarries 137 73.7
10. Clay Quarries 137 68.7
15. Agriculturists 135 64.6
6. Distributive Workers 120 59.2
r = + .80 ±. 0.7
Women
5. Ironstone Quarry Workers 196 104.0
3. Heavy Engineering & Shipbuilding 144 85.3
1. Engineering Machinists 124 78.5
7. Distributive Workers 100 73.6
13. Agriculturists 91 65.5
r = + 0.99 ±. 006

The gross expenditure of coupons is here given and is taken as synonymous clothes bought for work. An inspection of the table on page 22, in which the average expenditure of groups in this survey is compared with the average expenditure of a normal sample of the population, will show that the items of clothing on which the special groups have spent their coupons are directly or indirectly those connected with work. More coupons have been spent on overalls by the groups that the normal sample. On items such as nightwear, slippers, and the miscellany of “other” garments the expenditure by the groups is much less than that of the normal sample.

The correlations for both men and women are high.

Question 8: What is a year’s clothing requirement for your Jobs.

Workers were asked to estimate a year’s clothing requirement for their Job. A comprehensive estimate was usually given but in some cases items such as socks were omitted. Such cases have been deducted from the total sample when the requirement for particular Items was computed.

Detailed tabulations of the estimated clothing requirement, Including coupon-free garments, are given on pages 35 to 49 of the Appendix.

Garment OCCUPATIONAL GROUPS
2 4 6 8 9 10 11 12 14 15
Heavy Engineering & Shipbuilding Iron & Steel Manufacture Distributive Ironstone Quarry workers Limestone Quarry workers Clay Quarry Slate Quarry workers Building Transport (non-uniformed) Agriculturists Average of these occupations
Number in Sample 517 537 121 121 214 185 173 541 488 79 3111
PROTECTIVE Number of Coupons
1. Boiler Suits 6.48 3.88 1.52 1.68 0.80 2.40 1.60 2.92 4.64 0.80 3.48
2. Overalls & Smocks 7.38 4.17 4.92 2.40 4.98 4.23 3.45 6.87 4.65 4.95 5.28
3. Overall Jackets 1.30 0.70 0.54 1.06 0.36 0.76 1.52 0.62 0.42 0.46 0.78
4. Overall Trousers 0.16 0.10 0.04 0.12 0.28 0.20 0.10 0.06 0.04 0.06 0.10
5. Aprons 0.14 0.94 0.96 - 0.10 0.10 1.20 0.28 0.42 0.06 0.46
Total 15.46 9.79 7.98 5.26 6.52 7.69 8.71 10.75 10.17 6.33 10.10
OUTER CLOTHING
1. Suits, complete 18.20 12.48 22.88 11.70 3.38 2.86 4.42 12.48 16.38 6.38 13.00
2. Overcoats 1.92 0.64 2.08 12.48 2.08 1.92 3.36 0.76 8.32 3.20 3.20
3. Mackintoshes 2.08 0.16 1.28 6.24 3.84 0.48 6.24 2.24 1.92 5.60 2.24
4. Trousers 14.64 22.96 8.48 17.22 19.28 19.44 13.44 15.44 12.08 16.88 16.00
5. Waistcoats 3.00 5.15 0.95 5.10 3.20 5.05 7.90 2.20 1.00 3.05 3.25
6. Jackets 9.23 6.76 8.06 20.80 24.05 20.67 18.45 22.23 18.20 18.98 15.34
7. Pullovers, sweaters, cardigans 4.03 2.21 1.89 3.12 2.93 3.19 2.93 4.42 2.99 3.51 9.35
8. other - - - - - - - - - - -
Total 53.10 50.36 45.62 76.66 58.76 53.61 56.75 6.77 60.89 54.6 56.28
Underwear
1. Shirts 27.28 32.80 18.88 33.60 27.12 23.76 23.28 23.12 20.40 28.24 25.60
2. Sets of underwear 18.41 14.98 11.69 18.27 10.01 4.76 4.55 13.88 11.62 7.00 12.81
3. Vests 1.16 1.165 0.70 1.26 3.43 5.88 6.83 0.53 1.05 3.71 1.89
4. Pants, flannel drawers 1.05 1.79 0.56 0.42 2.49 3.99 6.51 0.39 0.67 2.00 1.54
5. Other - - - - - - - - - - -
Total 47.90 51.22 33.43 55.55 43.05 38.39 41.17 37.92 33.74 40.95 41.84
FOOTWEAR
1. Socks 24.09 26.10 15.69 27.33 16.56 22.53 19.65 20.31 13.14 19.74 20.45
2. Boots 17.22 17.85 8.96 16.52 14.14 13.58 10.78 14.49 13.86 12.95 14.70
3. Shoes 5.95 2.52 8.33 0.14 0.77 1.40 0.42 4.62 5.95 0.21 4.06
Total 47.38 46.47 32.98 43.99 31.47 37.51 30.85 39.42 32.95 32.90 392.22
Total Coupon Requirement 163.84 157.84 120.01 181.46 139.80 137.20 137.48 148.86 137.75 134.78 147.44

ESTIMATED CLOTHING REQUIREMENTS - WOMEN

Question 8 - “What is a year’s clothing requirement for your job?”.

Garment OCCUPATIONAL GROUPS
1 3 5 7 13
Eng. Machinist Heavy Eng. & Ship building Iron & Steel Manf. Distributive Agriculturist Average of these occupations
Number in sample 523 174 288 257 378 1620
protective Number of coupons
1. Boiler Suits 1.84 2.72 6.36 .08 .32 2.12
2. Bib and Brace Overalls 10.56 10.89 8.64 8.28 6.93 9.03
3. Sleeveless Overalls: aprons .68 .20 8.16 1.08 1.26 2.16
4. Sheepskin aprons - .10 1.24 - .02 .24
5. Other .48 .04 .98 - .66 .48
Total 13.56 13.95 25.38 9.44 9.19 14.03
OUTER CLOTHING
1. Costumes .16 - - .96 .64 .32
2. Overcoats 2.64 2.64 .50 5.12 8.75 4.13
3. Mackintoshs .50 1.32 .17 1.49 10.23 2.97
4. Slacks 6.20 8.00 9.50 4.15 6.00 6.60
5. Shirts, blouses, jumpers 14.34 16.32 27.24 .54 .24 11.34
6. Jackets, blazers .10 1.10 1.30 .50 2.85 1.10
7. Pullovers, sweaters, cardigans 2.15 1.11 2.28 .59 2.54 1.95
8. Other 14.48 12.80 13.60 14.48 7.84 12.56
Total 40.57 43.29 54.59 27.83 39.09 40.97
UNDERWEAR
1. Corsets, suspender belts 2.37 2.79 3.63 2.52 1.98 2.55
2. Brassieres, etc. .41 .35 .71 .44 .25 .42
3. Vests, knickers, camisoles 7.23 9.03 10.80 6.45 8.28 8.19
4. Petticoats, combinations 4.90 4.15 8.15 4.20 4.80 5.25
5. Sets of underwear 12.00 13.86 22.50 8.46 6.36 12.18
6. Other - - - - - -
Total 26.91 30.38 45.79 22.07 21.67 28.59
FOOTWEAR
1. Stockings, socks 22.00 30.52 41.36 25.08 12.38 24.60
2. Shoes 21.00 26.25 28.90 15.50 8.15 16.10
3. Clogs - - - - - -
4. Wellingtons - - - - - -
5. Slippers - - - - .5 -
6. Other - - - - - -
Total 43.00 56.77 70.26 40.58 20.58 40.70
Total Coupon Requirement 124.00 144.39 196.02 99.92 90.53 124.29

Question 9 - “ Are you able, or unable to obtain all your essential requirements with your coupons?”

Investigators reported that they usually knew the answer to this question before putting it, from the worker’s remarks on the preceding questions. The replies show that 76% of men and 81% of women were unable to meet their requirements. The tabulation of replies to Question 9 shows what garments the worker was unable to get because of coupon restriction.

Occupational Groups

Answers to Question 9 Men Women
2 4 6 8 9 10 11 12 14 15 Average 1 3 5 7 13 Average
Able 12 16 39 21 23 31 21 22 20 24 21 16 10 5 19 30 17
Unable 87 81 58 78 76 64 76 75 75 72 76 81 88 93 78 69 81
Don’t know 1 3 3 1 1 5 3 3 5 4 3 3 2 2 3 1 2
Sample= (100) (517) (538) (256) (121) (214) (185) (173) (541) (488) (79) (3112) (523) (174) (288) (257) (378) (1620)

Question 9)a) - “If unable, what do you need that you cannot get?

Protective Garments 49 26 21 13 20 16 22 26 34 20 28 26 33 41 22 19 27
Overcoats and Raincoats 6 4 7 9 7 3 14 8 8 9 7 9 7 10 14 17 12
Suits or Costumes 16 12 19 12 12 4 13 15 16 3 13 1 1 1 2 2 2
Trousers or skirts 16 25 11 23 25 28 21 12 11 23 17 5 6 7 2 7 6
Jackets and Waistcoats 6 6 4 8 7 6 24 7 10 8 8 .2 1 7 - .5 .3
Best Clothes 3 3 2 3 5 5 - .4 .7 3 2 2 3 .4 .8 3 2
Clothes in general 5 5 1 6 3 3 2 2 4 5 3 2 1 3 3 3 3
Shirts or dresses 14 21 5 11 16 13 11 9 6 8 12 9 3 7 15 7 9
Socks or stockings 15 16 8 13 12 13 18 12 8 8 12 35 43 48 37 15 33
Underwear 14 16 3 7 16 7 9 6 7 8 10 22 20 30 18 12 20
Pull-overs, blouses, etc. .7 .6 - 1 1 - .6 .7 1 - .7 4 6 6 2 3 4
Gloves - - - - - - - - - - - - - - .8 .8 .3
Footwear 43 38 15 14 27 23 26 22 28 29 28 33 51 54 25 19 34
Wellingtons, Gaiters .7 .2 - - 1 .6 5 1 .2 9 1 .2 - .4 1 8 2
Sample (=100%) (449) (538) (246) (105) (212) (178) (169) (541) (488) (79) (3005) (506) (174) (288) (249) (379) (1589)

Question 10 - “Do you buy more, as many, or fewer clothes now as compared with the year before rationing?”

Comparatively few men in these occupations were buying more clothes than they did before rationing began, particularly few in iron-stone, limestone and slate quarries. An equally small proportion of women in agriculture and the distributive trades were buying more clothes. On the other hand, a large proportion of women in engineering and iron and steel manufacture, Groups 1, 3 and 5, were buying more because as the answers to Question 11 show, they work longer or the work is heavier and dirtier than in their former employment.

Most workers are buying fewer clothes mainly because of the inadequate number of coupons, and to a lesser extent because clothes are costing more. Included in “other answers” are those workers who said they were buying less for patriotic reasons, they were putting their money into War Savings instead.

Occupational groups

Occupational Groups

Men Women
Answer to Question 10 Heavy Engineering % Shipbuilding Iron & Steel Manufacture Distributive Workers Quarry Workers: Ironstone Quarry Workers: Lime stone Quarry Workers: Clay Quarry Workers: Slate Building Trade Non-uniformed Transport Agriculturist Engineering Machinists Heavy Engineering % Shipbuilding Iron & Steel Manufacture Distributive Workers Agriculturist(Excluding W.L.A)
2 4 6 8 9 10 11 12 14 15 1 3 5 7 13
% %
More 16 17 11 7 8 12 8 16 13 8 32 38 44 15 12
As Many 34 40 41 30 48 38 37 31 32 44 17 20 19 17 29
Fewer 50 42 48 62 44 50 55 53 55 48 50 42 37 68 59
Sample (=100%) (517) (534) (252) (121) (214) (185) (172) (533) (479) (77) (519) (174) (287) (257) (377)
Question 11 - “If more or fewer what is the reason”
Buy more clothes because heavier and dirtier work and/or longer hours 13 11 5 2 5 6 2 13 8 3 28 38 35 10 8
Because clothes are of poorer quality and do not last so long 2 5 3 5 2 6 7 2 2 5 .8 - 6 2 9
Because inadequately stocked before rationing 1 .2 - - - 1 - .2 1 - .2 - .7 - 2
Buy fewer clothes , because of coupon restrictions 40 33 33 36 56 31 38 40 43 46 43 37 35 56 43
Because less money to spend, income tax, clothes more expensive, coupons given to other people, etc. 7 5 11 7 6 8 8 8 9 - 3 3 4 6 7
Buy more of some, fewer of others Buy more working clothes, fewer social 1 .9 .4 .8 - - - .9 1 - 1 2 1 3 3
Other answers 4 3 9 - 4 11 8 4 5 - 4 2 - - 10

Question 11(a) - “Has the quality of clothes remained the same?”

Investigators were instructed to make this question clear by adding “irrespective of price increases”. In spite of this some 7% of workers did not understand its intent. 61% stated that irrespective of price the quality of some or all

clothing had gone down.

Occupational Groups

Men Women
Replies to Question 11(a) Heavy Engineering Shipbuilding Iron & steel Manufacture Distributive Workers Quarry Workers: Ironstone Quarry Workers: Limestone Quarry Workers: Clay Quarry Workers: Slate Building Trade Non -uniformed Transport Agriculturist Engineering Machinists Heavy Engineering Shipbuilding Iron & steel Manufacture Distributive Workers Agriculturist (Excluding W.L.R.) Average of all Groups
2 4 6 8 9 10 11 12 14 15 1 3 5 7 13
% of workers % of workers
Yes: Quality remains the same 22 21 30 11 28 23 21 23 23 25 28 22 13 25 24 23
No: Quality down in everything or nearly everything 3 37 31 52 43 36 51 36 37 32 22 24 21 28 34 36
No : Quality down in certain things 28 26 20 34 19 29 29 24 21 32 22 24 21 28 34 25
Prices have risen, therefore quality poorer at same price 6 7 11 - 3 6 4 8 9 1 14 10 7 12 3 7
Do not know 13 9 8 3 7 6 7 10 11 10 4 5 11 4 7 8
Sample (=100%) (517) (537) (256) (121) (214) (185) (173) (541) (488) (79) (523) (174) (287) (256) (378) (4,729)

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